7 Things I learned about Fashion and Sustainability
In June 2019, I submitted my university dissertation on sustainable fashion, and the use of social media in supporting the growth of this movement. To gain a wider perspective, I interviewed brands and influencers, and analysed their communication to the wider public, on ethical and sustainable practices.
Exactly one year later, I wanted to reflect on what I have learned.
1. The fashion industry is more important than you think.
One of the first things I learned was the value of this industry. The sector includes textile, clothing and footwear and employs approximately 60 million people worldwide. It ranks as the seventh-largest economy in the world.
2. Lower and middle-income countries are the most affected.
Over the last decades, businesses have moved their production. At present 90% of it occurs in low and middle-income countries such as China and Bangladesh. This is a global issue, as, where businesses benefit from lower labour costs, workers are put at risk due to the insufficient health and safety regulations present in these countries.
3. Fast fashion has revolutionised global consumption.
Fast fashion has enabled consumers to buy more at a cheaper price. 80 billion items of new clothing are purchased every year, increasing consumption by 60% compared to that of 2000, though garments are kept for half as long.
4. The sector largely contributes to environmental pollution.
The fashion industry has been declared as the second biggest polluter in the world, after the oil industry. Clothing production generates waste from the beginning with an average of 35% of materials discarded. Subsequently, it goes through end of use waste: where 57% of it goes to landfill, 25% is incinerated, and 18% is re-used or recycled.
On a more positive note:
5. The new generations are challenging the fashion agenda.
A McKinsey study shows that 9/10 Gen Z consumers believe that companies should be held accountable in addressing environmental and social concerns. This activism by young consumers has been seen in the recent #PayUp campaign, which calls for fashion brands around the world, to pay garment workers what they are owed; despite the decrease in sales, and cancelled orders due to the Covid-19 crisis.
6. Organisations and movements are on the rise.
ThredUp’s 2019 report states that the second-hand market has grown 21 times faster than new apparel in the last three years. It is projected to double in the next five years. This demonstrates a shift in consumers’ behaviour, and highlights the power in our everyday actions. In addition, there is amazing work by organisations – such as Fashion Revolution, Clean Clothes Campaign, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and WRAP - which continues to educate the public and fight for ethical and sustainable practices. Some brands have incorporated sustainability in their main values, but only when everyone sees it as essential, will garment workers, their families, and environments be protected by damage from the industry.
7. It is never too late to check yourself and right your wrongs.
My dissertation led me to discover the truth about the fashion industry, some of it was shocking, some of it was reassuring. This ultimately made me question my own behaviour as a consumer. To expand my knowledge even further, I have completed Fashion Revolution’s course ‘Fashion's Future: The Sustainable Development Goals’. I have now learned more about supply chains, production processes and the origins of textiles; how fashion has an impact on people and the planet.
I hope this post can serve as a reminder of my journey so far, and that in the future, I will be able to see how much my habits have changed for the better.